By Ankita Sharma
With the serene autumn season just hanging around the corner, it is natural for everyone to feel fluttery and romantic. This feeling has also been reflected clearly from the ramp walks of different fashion shows throughout the world. Blue is definitely the colour of the season and its combination with white will look even more mesmerizing. Darkness falls this season, as autumn’s gothic glamour lends its sombre palette to spring. Cobalt seems like autumn’s favourite primary colour and coral is another popular hue this season.
Designers have also been seen taking a linear approach to pattern, stamping the collections with stripes, chevrons and op-art zig-zags. Plaid tartan is in trend and this will surely help in bringing the vintage aura back to the season. French strips are in vogue yet again and bold prints and the colour ox-blood seems like another favourite of the designers.
With spikes and metal incorporated into their outfits, the designers make it sure to bring in the bright metallic colours so that the greyishness that is sure to follow this beautiful season is overlooked. But not everything is black or white. Fall’s runways were rife with the in-between colours — from charcoal to slate, which has been considered as the new neutral. From straight-cut grey woollen dresses skirts in Alexander Wang to long charcoal grey overcoats in Michael Kors, everything screams grey out loud.
In styles that would do Walt Whitman proud, fall is making a move back towards nature. Designers revisited the country classics for this season. The cosy knits, high boots, fur-trimmed outerwear and tweeds are not for the hermetic life though; they’re designed to be seen and Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs make it very clear.
Colours are made to be mixed, and for the coming season, layers of hues that are just a touch off or black, white, camel and navy were styled graphically for a welcome, pared-down take on the trend as seen in the Victoria Beckham and 3.1 Phillip Lim collections. If New York is any indication, the green movement has found its way to the catwalk. The hue is having its moment in deep, rich shades that embody the autumnal season in the collections of Michel Kors, Calvin Klein and Prabal Gurung.
The dress may be taking a light hiatus for fall, but the evenings will be had in modern le smoking options in white or black tie as shown by the collections of Victoria Beckham, Alexander Wang and Oscar de la Renta. Big seems beautiful this autumn, with cocoon coats, pillow-sleeved jackets, billowing trousers and softly structured skirts enveloping the collections. Top notch trousers also seem to be in. The florals have taken on a dark mood for the new season. Lush blooms in overripe hues, scattered across blackened silks and chiffons lend this season’s florals a dark, enigmatic glamour. Burnt orange, reds and blacks teamed with stained lips, smoky eyes and long, tousled hair set the tone for a dark winter romance. An add-on of sober skirt lengths and severe necklines to them and the beautifully melancholic mood is complete.
Leather has become a staple of the runways, no matter the season. Glossy black leather offers a sleek take on autumn’s new decadent air and this season, the new way with hide has an urban sensibility that’s a little bit tough, a little bit punk — rebellion never looked so chic and Calvin Klein and Prabal Gurung shows it clearly through their collections.
A new coat has always been one of autumn/winter’s big style investments, and 2013 is no exception. This season, cover-ups come in every way, be it big and billowing or sharply streamlined, boyish or womanly, richly coloured or pale and interesting, signalling a dream design for all occasions. Squares, checks and tartans are autumn’s definitive prints. Last season’s strict monochrome prints give way to softer, colour-drenched checks for autumn. Bright blanket weaves and laundry-bag squares have a witty, modern charm; billowing gowns and easy coats breathe new life into trad tartans; while fur, sequins and silks bring plaid to the party.
Fashion’s focus falls firmly on the skirt as the collections embrace a new-found femininity. The common theme here is a longer line, the mini enjoys an occasional outing, but it is knee-length and calf-skimming numbers that best capture the womanly moment. The designer collections display a paean to elegance and womanly charms. It’s the silhouettes that really speak to the female form, boasting grown-up hourglass curves, cinched waists, breast-hugging bodices and skirts that flare out over rounded hips. Beautifully tailored curves and belted middles show how fashion’s focus is on the waist this season. From the palest pinks to dusky damask hues, designers drenched the collections in a warm rosy glow. Overtly feminine and flattering palette, head-to-toe rose tones offered a beautiful spin on autumn’s pre-eminent trend: the new womanly allure.
This season’s designs will make it sure to reverberate them in everyone’s outfits through their variation and ability to keep off the gloominess of the approaching winters. Like they say, “Keep calm and be classy”